Today was a down day for us. Although we were scheduled to visit the Great Wall, because Maylia was still feeling poorly and refused to wear her winter gear, we felt it was best to keep her in for at least most of the day. Todd and I had also been fortunate enough to see The Great Wall on our first visit to China. We had seen Mutainyu, the section with a cable car to the top and an alpine slide to the bottom. The section of the wall they were visiting today was a smaller, much steeper section and, from what we had seen, it was a challenging climb for anyone, let alone while trying to carry a squirming toddler so we were more than happy to stay close to home.
We spent most of the day indoors, but by the late afternoon we were ready to venture out. Now there are a number of milestones we have already missed in Maylia’s little life: Her first smile, her first tooth, when she rolled over, sat up or took her first step. So we have celebrated milestones of a different sort. Today when we went outside and bundled her up in her coat it was the first time we had gotten her to keep her hood on without screaming. We took a photo and cheered. That was a major milestone for us . We couldn’t get gloves on yet but it was all about baby steps.
We headed down to Wangfujing, along with hundreds of other people and braved our way across roads, through a crazy maze of foot and street traffic. The place we were heading for was a market we had had only a glimpse of on our first day here: a place that Grayson was dying to explore, the crazy food market. The one where we had seen the scorpions and starfish on sticks. We were thrilled to discover that scorpions and starfish were only the beginning. We exited Wangfujing down a long alley way . Bright red and gold lanterns hung overhead illuminating a path lined with hundreds of stalls and teeming with people. Shopkeepers sang and shouted while others played musical instruments. Most were dressed for the weather and wore Chairman Mao caps on their heads . Some were wearing Imperial style costumes but my favourite are always the traditional chinese silk caps with the black tassels.
As we entered the street, though it was definitely a feast for the senses, there was very little there I would have dared to feast on -- though we were clearly in the minority. Most people had come here for the food and were eating creatures from sticks that looked more alive than deep fried. Over in the stalls were bamboo skewers of varying lengths and thicknesses threaded with whole squid, lengths of grubs even spatchcocked lizards. If those weren’t eerie enough, bald barbecued baby birds stared out from the counters until they were thrust into our faces by shopkeepers hoping for a sale. It was a whole different kind of Kentucky Fried Chicken. There were piles of noodles and plates of steamed dumplings. Boiling and steaming drinks in a neon rainbow of colours. Some meat was being grilled on upright spits like the donairs in Turkey, giant snails and lengths of sea cucumber. There were sweets too. Piles of colourfully wrapped candy, blocks of nuts and seeds held together like a brittle. There were elaborate lollipops -- threads of hardened sugar that had been drawn and spun into beautiful designs. My favourite though were the skewered fruit, covered in a coat of shiny sugar syrup that had hardened like a candy apple.
After the food stalls we found ourselves in the ultimate dollar store with every possible trinket ...from every possible country. It was funny to see African and Mayan masks amongst the Chairman Mao playing cards and “ handmade marble” Great wall replicas. Apparently all the “original artifacts” we had purchased on all of our other travels were all being bought and sold right here in Wangfujing street. We did buy a few things -- I mean who can resist a set of playing cards with the theme of “ China’s Treacherous Court Officials” ? At the next food market we finally treated ourselves to something to eat -- though we weren’t very brave. We indulged in donair styled meat ( spicy & delicious) and some skewered sugared strawberries ( crunchy, sweet and equally delicious).
Since Maylia had refused to put on her mittens we decided to head home and finish with a meal at the buffet. This seems to be Maylia’s favourite time. We sit in a booth and I help her on with her rubber bib -- styled a bit like a training bra. Though we definitely are in training of sorts. We push everything else on the table away, lay out a cloth napkin and with a fork and spoon in each had, wait for Daddy to serve us. ( Let’s be honest, this is my favourite time too.) Todd comes by shortly thereafter with a plate of noodles or pasta, cuts it into pieces and Maylia gets to work. Sometimes I can feed her a few bites but she is more and more independent -- except when it comes to seating, she still eats her entire meal while sitting in my lap. Baby steps. Todd brings my food next then a plate for himself and we enjoy a meal together -- no prep, no dishes, just enjoy a meal. This is the life.
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